1883 Blog

Miguel Atwood-Ferguson: Suite for Ma Dukes – Event Review

We travelled to the legendary Barbican Centre to see the works of, the late, J Dilla reinvented as contemporary chamber music by LA composer Miguel Atwood-Ferguson and producer Carlos Niño. All backed by a 17-piece ensemble.

Even as a self-proclaimed Hip-Hop aficionado, you may be forgiven for not knowing Suite for Ma Dukes. The brainchild of accomplished composer Miguel Atwood-Ferguson has never had its name up in lights in Europe before. However you will almost certainly be familiar with James Dewitt Yancey, otherwise known as J Dilla, upon which Miguel’s music compositions are dedicated. The Detroit producer defined an entire generation of hip-hop, from his productions with Slum Village, A Tribe Called Quest and De la Soul, to his everlasting influences on the likes of Kanye West and Mos Def. Earlier this month, for the first time ever, Miguel brought his orchestral homage to the greatest that ever lived across the pond for one night only.

Things began with a suitably trippy improvised performance by co-producer of the evening, Carlos Niño, featuring commanding vocals from Dwight Trible that rumbled the Barbican walls. After a fleeting cameo by Gilles Peterson, the 17-piece ensemble took to the stage, bursting into De La Soul’s “Stakes is High”; a storming entrance that immediately sent the crowd into rapturous cheers. The heavy Detroit boom bap was untwined and reformed into rich long tapestries that ride out over extended solos, conducted by Miguel as he shredded the violin. The depth and complexity of each composition only highlighted the mastery of Dilla’s own melodies. Miguel summoned arresting stops and flurries of volume from his ensemble, reminiscent of Yancey’s signature erratic drum patterns. The crowd became more raucous than any I’ve experienced in a theatre setting, with emotional outbursts and hollers of “Dilla saved my life” filling every lull in volume. It was a passionate audience that knew they were beholding true genius. The evening ended with Slum Village’s “Fall in Love” as a huge roster of surprise guests joined the stage, including Jazzy Jeff, Gaby Hernandez, Nia Andrews, Dwight Trible, Daymé Arocena, Moses Sumney, Larry Brown and Eric Lau.

At one point, Miguel admitted he had only met half of the musicians on stage just 3 days ago; an incomprehensible achievement considering their chemistry on stage and a testament to their respective talents. The three rounds of standing ovations speak for themselves. Miguel also summed up the magic of J Dilla impeccably:

“When you do something good it continues to bring joy and value to people’s lives long after you are gone.”

Here, 10 years after his death (would you believe some of the audience would have still been in primary school when he formed Slum Village) Jay Dee’s music still feels relevant and invigorating. With A Tribe Called Quest releasing their first album in over 18 years earlier this month to a roaring fanfare of praise, it is clear that the sounds of Dilla’s legacy are still very much alive. Perhaps more important than this however, is how Miguel’s show is not simply “hip-hop lifted to orchestral standards”. Instead, the evening proved without doubt that Hip-Hop, when in the right hands, can exude timelessness equal to any classical work.

We look forward to many more boundary-pushing performances within the historic chambers of the Barbican Centre and 2017 will see performances from the likes of King Creosote and audio visual experiences from Robert Henke and the techno godfather, Jeff Mills. To see the upcoming calendar and to buy tickets click here.

Words by David March.

1883 Pre-Xmas Shopping Guide

Architecture inspired Jewellery is a ongoing trend this winter, so we decided to collect some of the more power pieces for a subtle pre-Xmas shopping guide.

Dior

The “UltraDior” line is a tribute to the iconic Dior bead and without a doubt will become your new favorite accessory.

Dior “ULTRADIOR” RING RRP £370 available from www.dior.com

ZAHA HADID X Georg Jensen

Zaha Hadid collaborated with Georg Jensen on a collection of sculptural, parametric design rings and cuff bangles. We particularly love this one – an innovative yet timeless piece for a surreal visual effect on your wrist.

ZAHA HADID LAMELLAE TWISTED BANGLE – STERLING SILVER RRP £2,775 available from www.georgjensen.com

EF Collection

Staying true to her personal aesthetic, LA Based designer, Emily Goldstein sets out to create delicate pieces that can be worn and enjoyed everyday with a chic, sexy and feminine feel. EF Collection made from 14kt Gold and Precious stones.

EF Collection starting from £200 available from www.japr.co.uk

REGITZE OVERGAARD X Georg Jensen

The Infinity collection takes its inspiration from the figure 8 as well as the mathematical symbol for infinity. Make a wish for somethign that keeps giving.

REGITZE OVERGAARD INFINITY EARRINGS – STERLING SILVER WITH BLACK BRILLIANT CUT DIAMONDS RRP £975 available from www.georgjensen.com

Stella McCartney

Simple, delecate and full of intrigue – this Stella McCartney gold-tone earring is our current obsession.

Stella McCartney Gold-tone earring RRP £220 available from www.net-a-porter.com

ADORE

These sophisticated earrings with a radiant blue Swarovski crystal drop gem are perfect for party season. Sculptural earwire will add a touch of style to even the simplest of looks.

ADORE BRILLIANCE SOFT SQUARE FRENCH WIRE EARRINGS RRP £49 available from uk.adorejewelry.com

PHOEBE SIMPSON

This almost raw piece of gold will definitely reveal your wild side. The Quarry ring is hand carved in wax and cast in sterling silver with an 18ct gold plate.

PHOEBE SIMPSON QUARRY RING – 18CT GOLD PLATE RRP £80 available from www.phoebesimpson.com

Edit by Tamara Borodaneva

Maison Kitsuné launch 18th Music Compilation and Capsule Collection

Maison Kitsuné are a brand that fuses music and fashion with such ease that there is never one without the other. Their 18th music compilation on vinyl was released earlier this week alongside a fashion capsule collection turning the iconic “Parental Advisory Warning” into an ironic yet exceptionally humourous three-piece collection. Think Commes Des Fuckdown with a soundtrack to bop and dance to while wearing the wares.

The collection was designed by Cali Thornhill DeWitt – the man behind Kanye West ‘The Life Of Pablo’ tour merchandise – released alongside a compilation of chill and funky hip hop and future R&B including music by up and coming artists Leisure, Pusher, Parcels, SAINt JHN and GIRLI.

TRACKLIST: 
Manast LL’ – Adrian LL’ (2016 Edit)
Les Gordon – Paradise (feat. ADI)
Human Movement – Right Thang
Parcels – Myenemy
GIRLI – Too Much Fun
Samito – Cem Cem (feat. Mabika & Muneshine) Courts – Feel My Love
Pusher – Tell You (feat. Hunnah)
Adian Coker – Krispy
XXX – How Feet Is Your Love VenessaMichaels – Like That (feat. Jackson Breit) SAKIMA – Snake Boy City
Matveï – Alone
SAINt JHN – Roses
Johan – High in the Woods
Leisure – Control Myself

 The vinyl (£30) and collection (from £40) is dropping on 18th November on kitsune.fr and select stores around the world

Draw Haus X Joy BC Interview

Tomorrow Draw Haus are hosting a workshop with talented jewellery artist Joy Bonfield Colombara to allow visitors to create their very own bespoke ring.

Joy has worked as an artistic jewllery designer since she graduated from Glasgow School of Art in 2014 with a First Class Degree in Jewellery and Silversmithing. Since then her work has taken her through residencies at Hiko Mizuno College in Tokyo, and with Make Works in Scotland until she finally settled in South East London, where everything is designed and made with her own hands.

And now she has collaborated with creative studio, Draw Haus to offer a series of workshops where participants and demonstrate the making of their very own bespoke ring.

We were intrigued by this young woman’s achievements and immense talent, so we decided to sit down and get to know more about her ideas and art practise.

What was it like going up to Glasgow to study for your BA after leaving a city like London?

Glasgow is an amazing city; I lived there for 5 years. After Graduation I was offered an artist residency at GSA. I had all intentions of doing the residency and staying in Glasgow. But various events occurred in my life, which meant I had to come home, which for me is London.

Recently I bumped into a friend’s mum, who’s known me since I was a baby, and we talked about how much we love the sense of community where we live. She joked how even though I lived in Glasgow, Japan and Italy (Where most of my family, who are Italian, live), I will always come back to South East London. ‘Womb to the Tomb’.

Have your parents creative background influenced your decision to become an artist?

Absolutely. Both my parents are amazing artists, one a painter/ print maker and the other a sculptor. I have very vivid memories of going to the Venice biennale with my mum when I was about 5. The smell of wood and terps in my dad’s studio was always something I liked. Still to this day workshops and studios are places that excite me, and where I feel most comfortable.

On your website you said “You have to learn the classics before you destroy them”, is that something you always find accurate?

That’s another way of saying ‘you have to learn the rules before you break them’. For example, Alexander Mc Queen knew how to cut a suit perfectly, in a traditional way. He then went on break apart or play with classical ideals, structures and presentation. In the same way, I feel a chef should learn how to make pasta properly, with egg yolks and 00 flour, and the classical recopies which are still used today, before they start doing fusion.

Tell us a bit about your work, in your own words.

The majority of my work has an origin of context, narrative or meaning. Often people are surprised that my work, the jewellery, can have such profound philosophical content. Let me pose this question: Why cant jewellery have the same power or moving sensibility as literature, film, paintings or sculpture?

I hope in these wearable artefacts, visual, tactile and emotional conversations can take place, weather that is solely for the wearer or between the wearer and voyeur/viewer. For example, the ‘listening aids’, which are tiny carved ears in silver or gold, are intended to help the wearer be a better listener, which is beneficial to the owner and those around them. Or a ring I lent to a friend recently who is struggling with depression – she said the ring gives her strength. That piece was something I made when I felt broken. It was an exploration of damaged classical sculpture. These marble figures often missing limbs or sustaining huge cracks, yet still retain their beauty.

Jewellery or sculpting: Which practice are you more drawn to and why?

They are one and the same to me.

You will be doing a workshop with creative studio Draw Haus on the 17th November, how did this collaboration come about?

The two founders of Draw Haus came to an exhibition of mine this summer gone. We then spoke in depth about projects and realised we had similar ideals.

What’s the story behind putting on this workshop?

We share a great passion and interest in how something is made. What the artefact is made from and how the concepts within that have been executed.

I’ve been running all sorts of workshops since I was about 15. I use to do stencil cutting for a refugee youth charity. I also worked on art workshops in an educational garden. The ring workshops came about after lots of friends asking to see how I worked. So when Draw Haus asked to host me as part of their launch in this exciting space, I was joyous.

The workshop will allow the participants to design their own ring. What techniques will they use to during the workshop?

Not just design! They get a real solid silver ring they can wear! What I do prepare a wax blank form, which I then show the participants how to carve using a plethora of different tools. The waxes are then taken away by me, to the studio, and cast into precious silver. This method is called ‘lost wax carving’. It’s an ancient method synonymous with bronze sculpture and jewellery alike. The Ancient Greeks, West African Yoruba, Etruscan, Roman and Egyptians all applied this method.

Are you excited to see how other people interpret the design process of jewellery?

Absolutely. It’s always fascinating to see what people come up with. Everyone comes with different ideas of what a ring can be, or what they would like to make often evolves and changes as they learn how the material can be manipulated and what is comfortable to wear.

Draw Haus x Jewellery Making with Joy BC, 17th November 2016 at 15:30/17:30?19:30, 8 Fredricks Place, Loncon, EC2R 8AB

1883 interview R.A.P’s Hassan Hajjaj

Back in 1980s, Real Artistic People (R.A.P) blurred the lines of art, fashion and music and championed diversity. Although streetwear is common knowledge and prominent in both high fashion and high street theses days, back in the 80s it was still an idea and ideology created by people like Hassan Hajaj, owner of R.A.P, who had a small shop on Neal Street, Covent garden.

Now Real Artistic People has been brought back to life with the support of Cadillac and Sole DXB since its launch back in 1984.
1883 sat down with Hassan to speak about the relaunch and the story behind R.A.P.

Why did you choose the name Real Artistic People?

It’s what was around me, I had lots of friends who were artists, musicians, film makers, designers, photographers, djs + club promoters. Alongside those who were boxers, dancers, stylists, writers, graphic designers and graffiti artists. Bad boys who turned around their lives and helped kids. They weren’t mainstream at-all and R.A.P was born into this environment, to represent the under-dogs who despite the odds, have done well in their careers.

When and why did you decide to relaunch R.A.P? What inspired you?

I did try a couple of times before and it wasn’t the right time, back then. I had spoken to the guys from Sole DXB last year, they really believed in the R.A.P relaunch. They understood what I wanted to achieve and they knew that Cadillac were the right partners for it. We really went for it these last few months and have created a small range showcasing at Sole DXB in Dubai from November 18th – 19th.

How many people worked on the relaunch? Are people from 1980s still involved?

On this launch I had the support of Sole DXB, with Cadillac as a sponsor. If R.A.P continues then I will definitely mix in people from the 1980’s and create a new team.

The launch will take place in Dubai on the event Sole DXB, why Dubai?

Sole DXB offers the perfect platform via Dubai, the new cultural hub, where East meets the West, where we can develop a new culture, just like we did in London in the 80s.

What was your inspiration for the 12 pieces you designed?

I took inspiration from some old designs from the R.A.P archive, to illustrate the heritage of the label, give a sense of what it was all about whilst adding some innovative pieces with a fresh outlook.

The people you chose to shoot for the new collection, are they all artists, was there a relation or particular reason why you chose them?

Yes this is very important to me, to have people who are artists and not just models, as this was the base of R.A.P, it’s integral to remain true to its roots. For the launch I asked my friend’s son (Moses Guiquine) who is one of the new generation of artists and also my daughter’s friend who is a street dancer (Nathalie Manzangi Miller.

What made you give up your shop on Neal Street?

Growth, it was time to change. I wanted to explore other avenues and see what else I wanted to do. Fashion was changing so rapidly back then and it was very tough to have a label, it was just the right time.

Coming from Morocco and going back and forth to London, how would you describe the changes both countries have gone through?

There have been lots. Morocco is moving fast with so much going on with changes especially within the younger generation. The country is evolving in the age of the internet whilst trying to maintain its history and tradition. Whereas London has also got bigger and faster, and now you find yourself with almost too much choice.

What has changed since 1984 in terms of art and fashion?

The internet alone has majorly changed the game in terms of art and fashion, it’s now so fast and readily available whereas before it wasn’t this accessible.

The collection is Unisex, is there a reason behind that?

No reason, as R.A.P was for women and men without any colour barrier

What do you consider as art and is fashion art?

I hope what I do now as an artist can answer your question as I try to do this through my work.

Is it important to give out a strong message with art?

It depends on the artist as it can, but also it doesn’t have to in order to be appreciated.

Real Artistic People seems to be important to you as you picked it up again, what are you saying with R.A.P, what does it mean to you?

Yes. R.A.P is important as it was my life and not just a fashion brand, it represented me and my friends in London. We found our village within the city, we had to create fashion, music, design, films, art, food, places to hang as there wasn’t anything in London for us that represented us. I would like to see R.A.P represent the next creative generation looking to find their place in the city.

What are your future plans for R.A.P?

We’re producing a full-blown standalone R.A.P installation at the Sole DXB event (Nov 18th-19th) that will walk you through the history of the label right up to its present-day iteration. Our next stop is flying the R.A.P flag around the world.

SOLE DXB will run from Fri 18th – Sat 19 November 2016 from 12pm – 10pm at Dubai Design District (d3).

Reigster at www.soledxb.com for free admission or AED 100 at entrance.

Wrangler – “Wild Way Home” A/W 16 campaign

You’ve seen them around, as well as the posters running along the underground. Now learn the theory behind the new Wrangler’s “Wild Way Home” campaign. The philosophy behind the idea is quite simple: the new collection stands for comfort and adaptability, blending seamlessly into your lifestyle from the get go.

Everyone knows that the daily commute can be a grind, one that seems to close down your world rather than expand it. With the right perspective – and in the right clothes – just getting from A to B can be the kind of adventure that opens your eyes to fresh sides of the city. This idea is the starting point (literally) for Wrangler’s new Autumn/Winter 2016 – to encourage everyone to be more spontaneous in our daily routines – ergo [to take] the “Wild Way Home”.

 The video shows free-climber James Kingston and Magdalena Sieczkarek taking unusual, dangerous routes to get from A to B, jumping from roof to roof, set to the words of UK Poetry Slam champion Harry Baker. As he puts it, “There is a way to be that exists outside the A to B…There is a wilder way.” “I love the idea of stepping into the unknown, of going where I don’t know what’s next, or jumping a gap where I don’t know where I’m going to be

Special fabrics such as ‘Coolmax’ and ‘Xtra Stretch’ are used to make men’s denim in the collection more flexible and comfortable, Jogging Jeans and Knitted Denim Jeggings were created for the women’s collection.

Document your own #wildwayhome on Instagram and explore everyone else’s approach to a wild side.

The new collection is available to buy now on www.wrangler.co.uk and instore.

NikeLab Air Zoom Spiridon X Roundel

* Major delays expected on the Bakerloo and Northern Line. *

Tomorrow NikeLab is taking over Charing Cross station for a pop-up store to sell its very new collection.

The collaboration is set to honour the original and popular Nike Air Zoom Spiridon launched in 1997.

The new design consists of an all-over print on the sneaker with the special London Underground font found in 1916, to remind of the 90s style it originated from.

The shoe’s heritage as well as Transport for London’s iconic font – which was modernised this year and is now called Johnston100 – unifies to a unique and modern aesthetics.

The navy blue colour scheme will be exclusive to the UK, while the white design will be available globally.

Another major design highlight is the London Underground Roundel on the tongue of the shoe.

Only a limited amount will be stocked in the pop-up store this Wednesday and the fact it will be at a tube station, makes it a “worth the travel” experience.

The release date for selected retailers on 17th November – so get ahead of schedule and get your pair this week.

If you live in London, then this is something you shouldn’t miss.

 For more info on the pop up, head to: https://www.nike.com/events-registration/event?id=66982

NikeLab Air Zoom Spiridon X Roundel is available from November 17th 2016

Pop Up – Charing Cross Station November 9th

Words by Aylin Delemen

Our must see exhibitons this week

This week get some hair inspiration, discover your creative side with a needle and thread or explore the vulgarity in fashion with our three must-see exhibitions in London.

Somerset House

 First up, legend Sam McKnight is exhibiting some of his biggest accomplishments from his forty-year career in the industry. Starting from the late 70s until now, McKnight has worked with some of the most illustrious fashion publications and creative teams, contributing to iconic imagery.

His work will be available to see until the 12th March 2017 at the Somerset House, London.

Tickets are £13.00 and with concessions £10.50

Somerset House, Strand, London WC2R 1LA

www.somersethouse.org.uk

NOW Gallery

NOW Gallery is hosting London based designer Molly Goddard until the 19th of February 2017. A interactive set up allows visitors to take part in the exhibition with oversized tulle dresses hung from the ceiling. You are encouraged to pick a needle and thread and embrace your creative side by embroidering the dresses by Goddard.

Entry is free

NOW Gallery, The Gateway Pavilions, Peninsula Square, London SE10 0SQ

www.nowgallery.co.uk

Barbican Gallery

 

What is Vulgar in Fashion? The Barbican poses the question to visitors, encouraging them to think about taste; what is excess? Why are we shocked?  Over 120 objects make up the exhibition, including couture, costumes and pieces from the likes of Lanvin and Vivienne Westwood.

The exhibition runs until the 5th of February 2017.

Tickets are £14.50, concessions £12

Barbican, Silk St, London EC2Y 8DS

www.barbican.org.uk

Words by Aylin Delemen

1883 Weekend Shopping Guide: Liquid metal

Futurism and fashion come together for AW16 to give your wardrobe a high-shine finish. Here’s our guide for the weekend ahead.

Anya Hindmarch

Irony at its best: grab ahold of Anya’s futuristic crisp packet for extra style points this weekend.

Anya Hindmarch Crisp Packet Clutch RRP £1,195 available from www.anyahindmarch.com

PROENZA SCHOULER

Proenza Schouler’s metallic boots have the power to transform even the simplest outfits into something other-worldly.

PROENZA SCHOULER Leather curved heel ankle boots RRP £735 available from www.matchesfashion.com

ISABEL MARANT

Christmas party dress sorted with this Isabel Marant lamé dress – perfect for day-to-night transformation. Style with leather jacket or parka.

ISABEL MARANT ‘Mae’ lamé dress RRP £503.85 available from www.farfetch.com

SANDY LIANG

This gold Sandy Liang metallic leather biker jacket is lined with enough fluff to keep you warm, and enough shine on its leather exterior to make you glisten like liquid gold.

SANDY LIANG Bowery Leather and Shearling Biker Jacket RRP £1,670 available from www.brownsfashion.co

Dior

Add some surreal reflections to your surroundings with “Dior So Real” sunglasses. THE Timeless piece. You can thank us later.

Dior “DIOR SO REAL” SUNGLASSES, SILVER RRP £420 available from www.dior.com

Edit by Tamara Borodaneva

Ninja Tune Present WHP: Review

Ninja Tune’s Friday curation of Warehouse Project confirmed – not that we had any doubts – that the left field electronica savants are uncompromisingly select in their musical tastes.

With a lineup boasting, amongst others, Bonobo, Jon Hopkins, Romare and Maribou State, at 1883 we could barely keep a lid on our palpable excitement for the weekend’s revelry.

On the night, Store Street seemingly swelled to accommodate a sell-out crowd as fans from across the country made their way to see room one headliners Bonobo, Hopkins & Gilles Peterson.

And, in what is easy to imagine as homage to the iconic venue and Manchester’s dance-music history, the big names on the night played techno-infused bangers with lots of low end.

Jon Hopkins’ set was a soft-light daubed Marauder’s Map to the emotional dimensions of dance music – disappearing all too early as he played the evening’s early slot.

Followed by Britain’s foremost guide to world musics, Gilles Peterson, the man from Caen span records that married his love of worldwide with a throbbing underside of industrial bass.

And, as is almost usual, the evening belonged to Bonobo. With an ever-increasing stock, Simon Green’s tours ceaselessly under his popular moniker all over the world and is now a certain ticket-seller.

Given the headline of headline sets, dance-music’s most prominent apostle to organic sound battered the WHP dance floor with multi-layered zingers and techno-rollers that were impossible not to dance to.

Ably supported in Room Two by the immutable Maribou State – who provided a darker denouement to the evening – and the analog-loving Romare, Ninja proved that it’s possible to adhere to dance music’s vogues whilst pushing boundaries and maintaining individuality.

As a label, they stand alone in promoting an array of artists that maintain singular genre-twisting approaches within the realms of rap, jazz, electronica and R&B. 

This night was but one celebration of their idiosyncratic ethos within a world of musics that can overwhelmingly, and head-numbingly, produce the same and same and same again. 

Words by Dan Cave.